San Miguel Ibiza - churches, forests and views


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The northern region of Ibiza could not be more different from the south, and nothing demonstrates this more than the small village of San Miguel (Sant Miquel to the locals). Located approximately 4km inland in the north-east of the island, San Miguel is surrounded by pine forests and craggy coastlines, hills and winding lanes.

San Miguel is situated on the Puig de Missa, which is part of the Els Amunts range of hills. Most of the buildings that line the village's square and its few streets are of the traditional, whitewashed variety. The most impressive structure is the church - Esglesia de Sant Miquel - which was the first construction in a settlement established here in the 1300s, and was built as a defensive look-out up in the hills. It is one of the oldest churches on Ibiza, and is worth wandering into for a look - even though it is furnished in a modest way, it was decorated rather elaborately in the 1800s with frescoes and exquisite stonework.

From the Puig de Missa the view over the island is spectacular, and mainly spans the dense pine forests of inland Ibiza. It is up here that one realises how inconsistent the popular image of Ibiza is with the real thing; away from San Antonio and Ibiza Town, Ibiza is a rural and stunning place.

Ironically, San Miguel's secluded charm has over the years attracted tourists and new inhabitants, and modern buildings are starting to muscle in on the traditional. But the village still retains much of its Ibicenco identity, with plenty of non-tourist residents and traditional pastimes. On Thursday evenings, for instance, there is a display of traditional dancing near the church. Bus services to the larger towns are fairly infrequent, and so far San Miguel has been able to avoid sliding too far in the direction of themed pubs and fried English breakfasts.

A few kilometres north of San Miguel is the coastal resort of Port de Sant Miquel (Port de San Miguel), which is one of only a handful of resorts in this area. Port de San Miguel is far more lively than its inland namesake, with various bars and restaurants. The wonderful beach is surrounded by high cliffs and the inevitable onset of property development, and attracts families and those seeking a quieter holiday than those offered by the southern half of the island.

Those staying in this region are advised to hire a car, in order to see as much of this rural side of Ibiza as possible. The north has some stunning coastlines and countryside, and really is a world apart from San Antonio's Sunset Strip.

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